Alright, enough slacking off. The poor Spyder has been untouched for too long. I finally got somewhat settled after a move back to Alabama and sold my other truck, no more excuses. So I got the car back on jack stands, and got back to work.
First priority was shoring up the engine bay plumbing. More daunting than it may sound, as the supercharger adds quite a bit of hoses and tubes to contend with. I wanted things to remain as neat and organized as possible, with a factory look.
23. Since there are number of extra vacuum customers, I needed to get my vacuum block fitted with the correct nipples and installed. If you go back to the first page you can see how I planned to mount the block on the lower left firewall using the nut-serts and a piece of aluminum angle. I replaced the OBX nipples with properly sized ones from Summit. The AFPR and boost gauge sender both required 3/16″ line. The BOV uses 1/4″ and the final nipple is 5/16″ for the EVAP system. The entire block is fed by 5/16″ line running from the IM TB flange, which traces the same route as the throttle cable, making for an easy guide and spot to attach zip ties.
24. Now with the block installed. You can see it’s a tight fit, and getting tighter the further I go. There’s not much room to work with in the Spyder’s bay, much less with a Rotrex and the associated plumbing. You can see I don’t have a clutch line installed, I later replaced it with a Speed Source SS line.
25. Now for the Intercooler (IC.) This was the bane of my existence for nearly a day. Bill has downsized to this model for a better fit, but it’s still a B!&@H to get in there. There’s a small metal tab protruding out of the firewall which is used to secure the engine wiring loom. It get’s in the way and must be removed. Don’t do what I did and think you can separate the spot welds. The welds win over the surrounding sheet metal, and the result was a small hole. I patched it the best I could, and it’s covered out of sight (out of mind.) Even with that tab removed, getting the IC in there is no easy task. Recommend two people and a 6-pack minimum.
26. Part of the problem is the Turbo Supra MAF, which is rather large. Bill had already trimmed it down to its minimum width. I took a bit more off the silicone hose as seen below. Every little bit helps.
27. Now for a little step often skipped, adding a one-way check valve to the EVAP line that runs from the manifold to the charcoal canister. This was recommended by FriendofSpyder and WTS (topic here), by way of Curt to me. Basically it keeps boost pressure from forces gas fumes out of the charcoal canister which is sitting behind the driver inside the cabin. I bought a simple plastic check valve from McMaster-Carr that was rated well over my max boost and gas/solvent proof. Here’s a photo of the valve installed in the line which runs the EVAP VSV (little blue solenoid valve) to the middle hardline on the firewall. Here’s the check valve: http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/116/481/=6ef2k8 Part #: 2987K25
28. In the next photo there’s a lot going on, I’ll try to break it down. At the top, mounted to the firewall just under the rubber lid gasket you have the VSV CCV, mounted using a rubber cushioned wire clamp. This connects to the left hard line and to the airbox in a stock setup. Since I have no airbox, the line you see trailing off to the right across the valve cover will eventually be routed down to the intake side of the Rotrex. This way it’ll always see vacuum or at least just atmosphere, just like stock.
To the right of the VSV CCV is the EVAP VSV, the little blue plastic valve. Again it’s mounted to using a cushioned clamp, to a spot on the engine. Connected to the middle hardline like stock, the other end runs to the check valve shown above (flow direction towards engine) then down to the vacuum block, which eventually runs back to the IM.
Now running out of the valve cover you have the PCV and crank vent setup. Both vents run to a twin catch can mounted to the left shock tower (look back at page one for better photos.) The larger one vents to atmosphere out of a K&N filter after going through the catch can. The smaller one is routed back to the IM (post throttle body) just like factory. The catch can prevents blow-by and oil residue from re-entering the IM. There are two Krankvents, one in each line. The larger one that vents to atmosphere helps relieve crank pressure while in an on-boost situation by venting to atmosphere, but maintains a crankcase vacuum through its check valve. The smaller one does basically the same thing, but with the addition of utilizing the IM‘s vacuum (off-boost) to further evacuate the crankcase of pressure.
I’m nearly done with plumbing the engine bay. I still need to finish up the intake side of the Rotrex, oil cooler lines, Rotrex oil lines, fuel return lines, and A/C compressor lines. I bought a big roll of 5/16″ and 3/16″ emissions/fuel line to do all this, as well as cannibalizing spare hoses that I had laying around.
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