UPS has said the check is in the mail, hopefully that’s the case. Alright, let’s try to get back on track here.

90. Time to fix those craptastic Moroso drain plug threads. Picked up a knock-off Helicoil kit, which was probably a bad idea. After ruining every insert but two, I finally got it threaded in. Inserted the QwikValve with some of my favorite Permatex High-Temp thread sealant and prep (the only stuff I trust now.)

91. Stripped down a head with some aircraft stripper, thoroughly cleaned everything:

92. Here’s where all the parts went. Every valve was cleaned with a 3M scotchbrite wheel. Replacing all the stem seals.

93. The intake manifold had a coat of sound absorption paint on it, which may have reduced its heat transfer somewhat, but it looked terrible and was starting to flake off. I took some more aircraft stripper to it… which ended up being nearly the whole can. That paint just turned to a nasty tar like sludge. After a lot of work I finally got it clean. I also sanded down the casting seams, cut off the unnecessary vacuum port (cruise control) and also cut off a few other aluminum protrusions. There was a bad dent on one of the runners, which I’m filling with JB Weld, then sanding smooth. I’ll eventually coat the whole thing in an epoxy based silver paint.

94. I noticed that the Rotrex outlet line was competing for space with the fuel line, so I unlocked the fuel hard line from its plastic mount and pushed it into the tunnel. Then I drilled, and mounted a nutsert so that I could secure the SS fuel line with a cushion clamp to the firewall. The SS line was rubbing the paint on the firewall, so I ordered up some large heat-shrink and covered the line with it.

95. Also competing for space was the Rotrex and the wires/fuel line/vacuum line running across the front of the engine compartment over the right hand side. To help reduce the clutter, I decided to remove the the 4ga cable running from the remote jumper terminals to the battery. Instead I just shortened the cable and ground to a factory lug directly below the terminals. Saved space and weight all at once. A ohmmeter confirmed I had a good ground.

96. I also decided to swap my Aeromotive Compact EFI AFPR for a Radium Engineering unit, which uses Bosch OEM style non-adjustable regulators. More info on it here: Very high quality gear, and good customer service. Since the FPR is set at my desired pressure, I didn’t really need a visual gauge, so I got a electronic pressure sender. Its cable run through the passenger side firewall grommet, then over to the Dataloggit so fuel pressures can be logged.


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