Sorry for no updates, been busy with a move to Texas and a new job (still in the Army.)

Ran into a few issues, but the car is finally back on its own feet. First I had a cooling issue, which I think can be attributed to some serious air in the system. I fully drained the car, filled, and did some real thorough bleeding. Also checked to make sure the thermostat was oriented correctly, and changed out the t-stat gasket. Then I had a boost leak at the MAF, which I think can be attributed to a bad BOV. Then I decided to do a transmission swap, which involves quite a bit.

80. In order to get to t-stat, the BGB has you go in from the top. This is a bit of predicament if you have an oil cooler in the right vent as I do. So I went in from the bottom, which only required removing the Rotrex’s inlet tube and filter. Very tight, but can be done. You can barely make it out if you look closely.


81. For the transmission, I decided to use a stock Matrix C60 6 speed which I had laying around. After some research, I found than the European Celica C60 uses a 4.312 final drive (same as a Spyder 5sp.) So I looked up the part numbers and found that a new ring gear (PN 41221-12480) and new output shaft (PN 33321-20141) could be had through any dealer. I also had a TRD helical LSD that I wanted to install properly.

In order to swap the final drives, you must remove both input and output shafts. Then remove all the gears, bearings, syncronizers, spacers, etc from the output and swap them over to the new one. This requires an assortment of pullers (prong and bolt grip) as well as a press. I picked up a 12-ton press from Harbor Freight, but it required widening the base to fit the gears down into it. So I chopped it up and welded it back together wider than before. I also needed several bearing splitters, one large (6″) splitter.

The following photos are just of some of the work.


The gears that are press fitted are on very tight, some required breaking out the pneumatic impact gun to get off. Likewise when going back together they required a very BFH.


The press was pretty crappy, but that’s what I’ve come to expect from Harbor Freight. I ended up welding the thing together because the tolerances were so loose that it barely stood straight on its own.

Here’s the shafts completely disassembled.

New vs. Old output shaft teeth.

New ring gear going on the LSD. You must boil the gear before setting it in place, then allowed to cool before torquing to spec. I installed new bearings and races.

Now to set the preload. The hardest part is finding a torque wrench that will read low enough (less than 5inlb.) With an LSD the preload is measured at the output shaft, with an open differential it is measured at the diff itself. If the preload isn’t in spec, you’ll need to swap spacers. Luckily I had two sizes on hand, and one of them worked.

For an idea of the ratios, here are the gears with top speed at 7500 rpm:

1st: 39
2nd: 60
3rd: 84
4th: 106
5th: 135
6th: 171

82. While I had the transmission out, I decided to upgrade the clutch. The previous one was an ACT full face, and I changed to an ACT 6-puck with a sprung hub. This will improve the torque hold slightly, without having to change the pressure plate (HDSS.) So pedal feel hasn’t changed. It’s slightly more grabby, but not by much, and isn’t broken in yet.

83. I mentioned that I had a boost leak at the MAF, which I discovered when checking that all the sensor plugs were tight. I could easily feel air escaping around the t-clamp. I fixed this, then while checking everything else I discovered that my BOV wasn’t holding vacuum. This BOV was an eBay knock-off of an older Turbosmart adjustable BOV. So I bit the bullet and ordered the real deal, a Turbosmart Kompact dual-port. In the photo you can see all three BOVs I’ve tried. The Turbosmart is clearly a better quality piece, the piston cycles smoothly and straight, using tight tolerance between the brass piston and aluminum body to maintain vacuum. The other two use o-rings, and the piston doesn’t always move straight.

84. While I was waiting on some parts to come in, I decided to pull out the dash. I wanted to do some squeak hunting, as well as upgrade some stereo parts (I’ll save that for another thread.) It’s actually not that hard to remove, the hardest part being the HVAC cables, which require you to contort your hands deep into the dash. Removing the dash also gave me the opportunity to clean everything underneath there. The previous owner was a smoker and quite a bit of ash had settled on everything. I also found a few cigarette pack wrappers stuffed deep in there. I applied stick-on felt padding between all the plastic on plastic rub points, as well as some foam tape. Hopefully it’ll be nice and quiet now.


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