Got a bit more done as far as plumbing in the engine bay. I only need to finish the Rotrex oil system. The cooler is hung, but I need to do some fabrication to make it all work with my under panels. Then I have to finish up the exhaust, then start working my way forward with the car.

38. Here’s the inline fuse right after the battery that MANDALAY was talking about earlier. The Innovative transmission mount had a hole in it the perfect size for a M5 Rivet Nut. So I used it and a cushion clamp to secure the fuse holder. I left enough slack so that I can still replace the fuse if need be.

39. I had to cut the wires running to my spoiler TBL (really 4th brake light) when I removed the engine lid. So that I wouldn’t have to do that again, I got some weather-pack style connectors from McMaster-Carr and installed inline with the wires to the light. It all tucks nicely behind the fuse box. I’m holding it up so you can see it.

40. I had to make some changes to the intake side of the Rotrex. Since I am running a oil cooler, the 90 degree silicone hose was interfering with the sandwich plate. I had no room to work with, and the recirculation hose was in the wrong spot (my fault for doing it outside of the car rather than test fitting.) So I bought a couple 45 degree hoses with the intent of zig-zagging it down and over. This would actually work, and I could have put the air filter over by the transmission in a big open space. Only issue would be that is where the Rotrex oil cooler was going to be. So I settled on just one 45 degree hose, which eliminated the interference with the engine coolant line from above and the oil cooler lines from below. In the picture below you can see the original 90 bend next to my current setup. The larger hose is for the recirculation valve, the smaller nipple is for the EVAP system.

41. And here’s the intake installed. You can see I added a K&N hydra-guard (or whatever it’s called) sock for the filter, just as an added precaution of having the intake set low. You can also see how tight it is in there. I can still get the filter on and off between the bars of Corky’s under-brace, but takes some muscle. You can also see the double stack sandwich plates. The upper has two -10AN fittings on a Hayden thermostatic plate, running up to the cooler. The lower plate has four 1/8 NPT fittings, two are plugged, the other two have the OE oil pressure switch and a Speed Hut oil temp sending unit. I had to extend the cable for the OE switch. The original hole for the OE switch is plugged. Oil filter is Toyota brand unit from a Turbo Supra.

42. Here’s the oil cooler lines from the topside. The fuel return line runs between the two oil lines, get’s a little tight in there, but nothing like trying to hook up those lines on the bottom. All the AN lines were pressure tested under water to 100psi, hopefully they don’t leak.

 

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