Work continues with finishing up the engine bay plumbing. I almost finished the electrical as well, but I had a bolt head shear off a battery terminal, so waiting on some bits and pieces to come in from McMaster-Carr to finish up.

29. I finished up running lines for the AC compressor. As you might have realized by now, the Rotrex head unit occupies the spaces previously home to the AC compressor. The compressor is moved over to the hot side, in place of the idler pulley or the PS pump on a Celica/Matrix/Vibe. Corky made a trick mount that allows lateral adjustment to align the belts. Obviously the hoses must be extended, Bill includes the new lines plus the hose ends to bolt everything up. Don’t forget to install new O-rings on each end (part # 90099‑14120 & 90099‑14121, two each) and lubricate them with some refrigerant compressor lube (Autozone.) I wrapped the first six inches of the smaller line with aluminum heat-resistant tape, as it runs close to the header/DP flange.

You can also see where I mounted my Innovate LC-1 WBO2. It’s stuck there with some 3M trim tape, and held down securely with a piece of aluminum I bent to shape and bolted in using a Nutsert and a nylon spacer for stand-off. The wire is kept away from the accessory belt with a cushioned clamp.

30. The larger AC line runs up and over the right wheel liner, inside the quarter panel. It exits right beside the hard lines. You have to trim the plastic liner at the bottom to allow the hose to exit. You can see where I took some spare vacuum hose (1/4″ for the BOV), split it with a razor, then adhered it to the sharp sheet metal with some 3M window gasket. This should keep the AC line from chaffing, I did the same thing where it exits out the bottom.

31. The small AC line runs straight down from the compressor, then forward. Corky’s rear brace makes for a great spot to zip-tie the line up and out of the way. You can also see in this photo the Qwick-Valve I just installed. The Moroso pan is notorious for its soft drain plug threads, which are easy to strip, and easily leak. My pan was constantly weeping oil, even though I only had maybe a quart in it. I used the F-103N valve (http://www.qwikvalve.com/F103N-12mm-1.5-w-nipple.html) which has a nipple, making for an easy change once all the under-panels are installed.

32. Here’s where the AC lines terminate to the hard lines. Again, new O-rings and lubricate them.

33. Next I finished up the fuel system in the engine bay. The fuel rail has a center-feed and an exit on each end. The left end has a Marren fuel damper, the right has a tight radius Earl’s swivel -6AN fitting. I originally intended to run the exit to another 90 degree fitting, but as you can see there is hardly any room. So I went with a straight hose end, then looped the hose back to the AFPR. In order to tighten it on there I had to remove the fuel rail. It’s very tight in there, and it was tough but not impossible. So at least I know I can change out injectors if need be.

34. Now over to the AFPR, which is mounted just under the lid hinge (perhaps too close, we’ll see once I adjust the pressure.) The top line entering the side of the regulator is the return from the right side of the fuel rail. The line out of the bottom goes back to the top of the fuel pump housing, draining back into the tank. Of course there’s a gauge to see the fuel pressure, non liquid filled, as I have a damper and want accurate readings.

You can also see my remote battery posts, mounted to the right shock tower using the same Nut-Sert (Rivet Nut) technique I used elsewhere. Since my battery is mount low down on the cross-member, there’s no easy way to get a pair of jumpers or a trickle charger in there. The posts allow easy access, even easier than stock. 4 gauge wire runs from the posts back over to the battery. More on that once I get some needed parts.