Head Unit

Deciding:As mentioned before I originally planned to use the oem RF HU in this install. My main reasoning was that I wanted to retain the factory look, along with the steering wheel controls. In fact I had even ordered the Navone LOC and was ready to use it. From information I had gathered from TitanTalk I knew that the RF HU had very low signal strength and would require some type of line driver to get a decent signal to the amps. Unfortunately I was getting the run-around with Alto Mobile over their UI-4, and didn’t want to pay/wait for the JL CleanSweep. The AudioControl LC6 was another option but it doesn’t have a line driver. I eventually copied Bestatchess and found an AudioControl Matrix on ebay at a reasonable price. I was beginning to realize that the RF HU was more trouble than it was worth, especially when you take into the consideration that it still didn’t have a quality AUX input, and wasn’t near as feature rich as an aftermarket HU. That’s when I ran across m95roadster’s post , which had photos of his JVC KD-AR5000 installed. I really liked the clean look of this HU, plus you can color match it to your instrument panel. I did a quick ebay search and found the newer KD-AR5500 for some very reasonable prices. Overview:(From Crutchfield)
First there was radio, then 8-track and cassette found their way into our cars. Compact discs took over in the 1990s, followed by everything from DVDs to iPods. Now JVC’s KD-AR5500 CD receiver lets you play back songs from Secure Digital (SD) cards. Fill your pockets with the tiny memory cards and hit the road; hours of music will now quite literally fit in the palm of your hand!

And this convenience comes bundled with an array of high-performance audio and a host of connection options. Its motorized, flip-down faceplate features a user-friendly, touch-screen control panel with Voice Support. Just touch the large, bright screen and you get spoken acknowledgments of each command you enter. Too cool!

Touch control isn’t this display’s only trick, either. It also offers a palette of over 1,700 variable colors, so you can set the receiver to match your interior, your outfit, or your mood! And with the PICT (Personalized Image Capture Technology) feature, you can load slide shows of your own digital images via the CD or SD card inputs.

JVC’s DiAS digital AM/FM tuner delivers powerful radio reception, and you’ll enjoy superb CD, MP3, and WMA playback, courtesy of the Advanced Multi-bit DAC (digital-to-analog converter). The on-board MOSFET amp (22 watts RMS x 4) ensures clean, realistic sound, while the 7-band iEQ (with its 12 preset tone curves) gives you the tools to shape that output to match your car’s acoustics. Use the three sets of preamp outputs to send a powerful 5-volt signal to your external amps.

JVC KD-AR5500

Details:CD receiver with built-in amplifier (22 watts RMS/52 peak x 4 channels)
plays CDs, CD-R/RWs (including discs loaded with MP3 and WMA files), and Secure Digital (SD)
7-band iEQ with 12 preset tone curves
motorized, slide out, detachable face with multi-color display
touch screen control with voice support
SIRIUS satellite radio controls
DiAS digital tuner
18 FM/6 AM presets
1,728 variable color display with PICT custom image software
5-volt front, rear, and subwoofer preamp outputs
dedicated subwoofer level control
advanced multi-bit DAC (digital-to-analog converter) for accurate sound reproduction
auxiliary input
direct track access (tracks 1-12)
CD/MP3 changer controls
wireless remote
clock
CEA-2006 compliant amplifier
CD frequency response 5-20,000 Hz
CD signal-to-noise ratio 102 dB
FM sensitivity 11.3 dBf
warranty: 2 years
Install:In order to install this single DIN HU, you need to get an install kit (either the Nissan 2 DIN Face and Metra or the Scosche.) I went with the Schosche NN1451B install kit. I liked the fact that it retained the factory AUX input and included everything you need (almost :ugh: )

It’s a pretty straight forward install, but requires a little modification to make it fit perfect. Simply remove the factory bezel and radio. You need to then remove the A/C controls, airbag light, hazard light button, and AUX plug from the oem bezel. You also have to remove the small metal clips from the rear of the oem bezel and transfer them over to the Scosche along with everything else. Those clips are a pain, but just take you time.

The black plastic portion of the kit is what holds your actual radio. The metal mount that comes with the aftermarket HU simply slides into it, then you bend the tabs to hold it in place. Then the whole assembly screws into places using the oem radio screws and mount. You’ll want to run all your wiring up to the dash prior to installing the mount.

In order to get the bezel to seat properly I had to notch the plastic directly behind where the relocated hazard light button’s wires run, as it was binding up there. I used a Dremel tool to make easy work of it. I also removed a little excess material from the back of the Scosche bezel to get a tighter fit. It wasn’t a great deal of material, just a few mils or so.This is the Scosche bezel installed:
Scosche Bezel Installed
Update: After driving around with the Scosche bezel for a while I decided to go with the OEM Nissan 2DIN bezel instead. I did this for a couple reasons, the Scosche bezel didn’t perfectly match the rest of the interior, close but not exact. Second, it didn’t fit as tight as the oem, since it doesn’t have the extra clips down the side of it like the factory bezel does.

So I purchased a new bezel from Courtesy Nissan and installed it. Unfortunately the opening in the Nissan bezel isn’t as wide as the Scosche and wouldn’t allow use of the JVC trim ring. Now I was stuck with a nice looking bezel, but a crappy looking install because you could see the metal sleeve of the HU. Which gave me the idea of glassing the opening to fit closely around the HU, and while I was at it I would move the SWI-X IR LED to a better location.

I used masking tape to cover the opening from the side that faces into the cab. Then I layed fiberglass and resin from the back side. Repeat this process a few times over until it was fairly solid. I also reinforced the backside of the bezel to keep it from flexing too much and having the fiberglass seperate from the plastic. I then used body filler to fill in the low spots, including the two dimples in the lower right hand corner. Then it was sanded smooth and retouched with filler and sanded again. Three coats of primer with sanding in-between, then sent off to a body shop to be painted to match the interior.

As seen from the back. I filled the opening up with resin and fiberglass, all the way to the lip of the bezel. Additional fiberglass was added for strength. To help the resin adhere to the plastic, it was rough sanded, gouged with a razor blade, and notches cut along the opening.

Fiberglass 2DIN Hole in OEM Bezel

Here you can see the body filler (the pink stuff.) You can also see where I originally drilled the hole for the PAC SWI-X. I later centered it beside the HU for looks alone.[/COLOR]

Hole Cut in Fiberglass

This is after several coats of primer and sanding with a fine grit.
Test Fit of Primered Bezel

The final product after paint. The paint matches pretty close, but not exact to the factory interior paint. It’s close enough to where I’m probably the only one who notices. I had to have it repainted after a couple days because the cheap Bondo brand body filler (don’t recommend) I used had contracted slightly. Notice the Nissan logo on the display. I have it set so that it zooms into the logo on startup and zooms away from it on shut down. :eveilgrin
Painted Bezel

PAC SWI-X

Description:The SWI-X is a learning remote which allows you to retain the use of their steering wheel or rear seat radio controls when replacing the factory head unit. Basically it learns what signals are sent from the steering wheel controls then emits IR signals to your HU based off of your aftermarket HU‘s remote control.
Installation: Installing the SWI-X was pretty straight forward. You’ll need to follow the Titan specific instructions found The install requires two resistors which must be soldered to the appropriate wires. It’s a bit confusing which wire you have to tap into, but when you pull off you oem bezel you’ll notice a wire that plugs to it towards the top right. It is a very narrow plug with a lot of wires. You need to follow that bundle of wires further into the dash where it plugs into a larger plug, remove it at that point. The remaining plug in the truck is the one the PAC instructions refer to. After that, simply follow the instructions for programming. It takes a little time to get it down right, but after that it’s a snap.
IR LED Location: The installation requires placing a small IR LED somewhere close to your HU‘s IR receiver so that the signals can be transmitted. It was a bit difficult to find a decent location. Originally I planned on locating it on the shifter finisher, but after testing it I didn’t get any response from the HU. Several other forum members had mounted their LEDs on the actual bezel, so I ended up doing that. It works fairly well, still a little trouble in bright sun conditions.
Update: Since I replaced the bezel, I relocated the LED from centered below the HU, to the left of the HU. This made a huge difference with the SWI-X. Before if I leaned to the left in my seat the IR signal wouldn’t have anything to reflect off and my steering wheel controls would not work. Now it works 98% of the time. I only seem to have issues if the sun is coming through the windows at a weird angle and bleaches the signal out.

Here you can see the two resistors soldered into place prior to being covered with heat shrink:

PAC SWI-X Wiring

This shows the wiring. The blue clips are the splices into the factory plug. You can also see the fuse holder for the SWI-X. After all the wires were installed I secured everything with electrical tape:

PAC SWI-X Wiring Installed

MP3 Player[/CENTER]

Eventually I’ll migrate some more information over here, but for now you can read my existing topic: Hardwired MP3 Player (the conept remains the same, except I no longer needed the PIE inline amp since the new HU has level adjustments)

CD Changer

Foreword:Originally I never planned on installing a CD changer. In fact I always thought they were kind of worthless, as I was the type of guy who whould change CD’s out on a regular basis and not have a set group of CDs to listen to. And with my 40gig MP3 player I didn’t really see the need for one. Well after having the RF 6-disc changer for nearly a year I grew to like having a changer. So just for the heck of it I looked for a changer and found one that would work with my HU and it also plays MP3 discs, the JVC CH-X1500.Features:* World’s Smallest 12-CD Changer
* MP3/CD-R/CD-RW Compatible
* Shock-Proof Full-Floating Mechanism
* Hung Mounting and Angled Mounting Capability
* CD Text Capability
* 1-bit (24-bit resolution) DAC
* See-Through Magazine
* High Precision 3-Beam Laser Pickup
* Track Error Recovery System
* Fast CD Access
* Mounting Bracket Supplied
* Magazine Lock Function
* Smart Eject
* J-Link Connection
* 1 Year WarrantyInstallation: Installing the changer is very simple. It only requires one wire, the JVC J-Link. This sends power, ground, signal, everything. The changer can be mounted a several different mounting angles. At first I planned to install it in my center console. I thought this would be best for security and would also allow me to change the magazine from the driver’s seat. I actually had the changer completely installed in the center console when I changed my mind and decided to go underneath the passenger seat. I felt that it took up too much room in the center console that I’d like to save for other essentials.

For under the seat installation I built a small pedestal out of 3/4″ MDF and covered it with black carpet. This mount allowed the rear foot HVAC vent to still blow freely. I secured the MDF mount to the floor using the OEM installed plastic screw anchors that come installed in all Titans. I’m not sure what they are used for, but probably for some factory/dealer installed option that I didn’t have. If you look carefully under your passenger seat you will see three small openings in the carpet where these holes are located. I ran the J-link wire though the same carpet hole as the passenger seat wiring runs, then ran it up to the tranny tunnel then up to the HU.

Carpeted Changer Mount

 

CD Changer Mounted

Notice the small piece of B-Quiet mat I placed on the top of the changer. I did this to ensure I wouldn’t have any rattles.
CD Changer with B-Quiet

 

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